Yakushima usually isn’t on the itinerary for first-time visitors to Japan. About as far as it gets from the country’s tourist-congested golden triangle (that would be Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka), the small island doesn’t offer the cherry blossoms, temples, or cityscapes visitors to Japan have come to expect. But as I float in crystal blue waters just off Isso Beach, an idyllic swimming spot that I have practically to myself on a perfect autumn day, all I can think is—“Well, their loss.”
Yakushima is one of 6,000 islands that comprise Japan. The 195-square-mile fragment of land floating off the country’s southwestern tip has been part of Japan since at least the early 8th century when it was mentioned in the Japanese Shoku Nihongi—the nation’s official record.
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Today Yakushima’s roughly 13,000 residents live primarily around the island ring road, alongside a brood of aggressive chickens that roam free. This leaves the rest of the island—a tangled interior landscape of rugged mountains and lush, old-growth forest—like a remarkable discovery straight out of Princess Mononoke.
If you’ve heard of Yakushima, you probably have the romanticized Studio Ghibli movies to thank. The good news is that if you make it out here—a surprisingly doable side trip when traveling through Japan—it’s every bit as wild and wonderful as the Hayao Miyazaki-directed film Princess Mononoke makes it out to be. Here’s what you need to know before you visit Japan’s most enchanting island.
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How to Get to Yakushima
Located at the southern tip of Kyushu, Yakushima is a 90-minute flight from Tokyo Haneda to Kagoshima International Airport. To reach the island, take a second quick flight or a cheaper two- to three-hour hydrofoil boat ride.
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When to Visit and How to Get Around Yakushima
Rainy season on Yakushima officially starts in mid-May, but in this sub-tropical climate, rain happens all year. If hiking is your goal, consider aiming for a mid-autumn visit—or April after you’ve experienced the country’s famous cherry blossom bloom.
Buses run on the hour along the island’s ring road. Having a car is key if you’re planning on traveling to the interior of the island and having some added flexibility. A number of rental companies at the airport cater to foreign visitors. Remember, driving is on the left-hand side of the road in Japan—and speed limits here are no joke.
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Where to Stay in Yakushima
For mid-budget travelers, Shikinoyado Onoaida is a charming family-run hotel that infuses traditional Japanese ryokan hospitality with modern amenities. Rooms are stand-alone bungalows with open-air baths, decks, and Wi-Fi. Kitchens are included in most units, but it’s worth getting up early for Japanese-style breakfast bento boxes in the dining room.
The peaceful, four-star Sankara Hotel & Spa caters to luxury child-free travelers, with its teak, Bali-inspired hotel interiors and serene hillside setting. Don’t miss dining at the hotel’s in-house restaurant Ayana, featuring seasonal regional flavors in European-inspired dishes.
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Top Attraction in Yakushima
Nature takes the headline here—and for good reason. Beyond the ring road, wilderness rules. The diversity of experiences is wild. You can hike through moss-coated valleys that feel untouched by human hands, or climb your way through step hikes with carefully constructed staircases—a move that allows more visitors to enjoy them without ruining the environment. The landscape is dotted with orange torii gates—a reminder that so many people see this land as sacred. These Shinto symbols are often the only visible infrastructure where nature otherwise completely takes over.
While visiting Yakushima can be accomplished as a very aggressive day trip from Kagoshima, you’ll be here just long enough to wish you were staying overnight. If you’re pressed for time, consider hiring local companies YES Yakushima or Go Yakushima for transportation and personalized itineraries. To truly appreciate the wild spirit of the island, plan on spending at least three days exploring.
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Things to Do in Yakushima Over Three Days
Day 1: Journey to Jōmon Sugi
This is by far the most challenging hike Yakushima has to offer, clocking in at nearly 10 hours of walking. The journey (or pilgrimage, if you prefer) winds into forested hills toward the oldest cedar tree in the world—a giant that’s been looking over the island for at least 5,000 years.
The 13.6-mile path is broken into two sections. The first part is the Anbo Trail, which follows old logging train tracks across large bridges and sections of old-growth cedar. Once you transition to the Okabu Trail—a shorter, steeper trek that was believed to put people off visiting the sacred site—wooden platforms and ladders provide some welcome aid for modern trekkers. Persist, and you’ll be rewarded with a sacred site, and the kind of silent, truly isolated forest bathing that few travelers are able to experience.
While this hike is long, it’s a challenge that can be tackled by anyone in decent shape. Be sure to wear solid hiking boots and a waterproof jacket. Bring 1,000 yen (about US$7) for the hiking fee, which goes towards trail upkeep.
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Day 2: Meet the Locals
Head west to the Seibu-rindo Forest Path. This 12.4-mile stretch of road is the picturesque home of the local Yaku monkeys—a species indigenous to the island. Here’s where your car comes in handy. Keep your eyes peeled along the quiet, forested road, as these monkeys have a habit of turning up out of nowhere—and not being in any particular rush to move out of your way. Expect to wait a bit, with camera at ready, as troops of monkeys mull around before granting you the right to pass. You’ll also enjoy cameos from the island’s local deer, a smaller variant of Japan’s mainland deer with alert glances straight out of a Disney studio.
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For an even closer view and wilder experience, consider renting a bike here—which gives you the flexibility to stop wherever you’d like to snap a photo and (if you’re really ambitious) turn it into an eight-hour loop around the entire island. In the forest, keep a respectful distance from the animals—and avoid looking the monkeys directly in the eyes. Go ahead and get lost in the deer’s dewy eyes. They don’t perceive eye contact as a threat.
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Day 3: Step Into a Cartoon World
Did you visit Yakushima if you didn’t set foot in Shiratani Unsui Valley? The unbelievably lush valley was the exact inspiration for Princess Mononoke. It’s a surreal visit, if only because you quickly realize that the animators didn’t embellish the area’s beauty. It really is that otherworldly. The park is a choose-your-own-adventure situation, with well-maintained hikes that stretch from one to five hours long—and often intersect.
Don’t be afraid to veer off in another direction if a landmark catches your attention. English-language signs will keep you from going too far afield. Ghibli fans will want to visit Tsuji-toge Pass to see the iconic clump of moss-covered trees that inspires one of the most memorable settings of Princess Mononoke. Bring 500 yen for entrance fees and light, moisture-wicking clothing. No matter how slowly you take this path, you’ll sweat—and marvel in awe at a magical island that isn’t just in the movies.
